surfing 2012

so belated merry christmas and happy new year
mele kalikimaka an a haoli makahiki hou
and hannuka for those in the house
and of course lets drop a verb for kwanza
but most of all for us sun observers
the shortest day is behind us and the promise
of summer is well on its way.
the planet has not shifted to shake us
the main virus off its back yes
that is coming in someone's life time,
we have before us choices
of living an inspired life of fresh air and fitness
amidst the polutants a, unkindness and derision.

the state of the art of surfing has devolved to a state
of mass market occupation= surfing is a comode ingredient
just another comodity in the toilet of a stagnant world market
filled with products that no one needs particularly
and will eventually dispose of in a landfill
for little or no cosmic or spiritual gain.
To possess a comodity on its way to disposal
will prove to be little or no value other
than status or prestige.

The surfboards of historical significance
must be custom and well made enough
to not only survive use but have
the intrinsic beauty to be somewhat
pleasing enough to encourage respectful
use parameters.

I.E. abusive use parameters where the
pilot justifies abuse of surfing tool
to make allusions to higher performance.

lightweight surfboards are simply fucked
because they don't last long enough
for an operator/pilot to get it wired
to milk either the wave or the boards highest
dividend-ability/surfing conditions.

popouts are production compromises
wether standup paddling specializers
or mass market easy riders they all
have in common the primary driving motive-
profit for the manufacturer-all else and
other motives take a second seat...
including Love of surfing sustainable
wage /profit margin for experienced surfers
and builders to further the craft and growth
of the spirit of surfing it self to pass on to
the children who will carry forth
the vicera of the soul of surfing.

this said I will stand down on this rant.
...ambrose...